Five dishes that belong to Malang, what is in each, and where the city actually eats them.
Beef meatballs in clear broth — but Malang's version arrives with a whole family of extras: fried wonton, steamed dumpling, tofu stuffed with more meatball, and thin noodles. You point at what you want; the price is counted from what is left in the bowl.
Thin egg noodles under minced chicken, with a bowl of broth on the side rather than poured over. Lighter than the Surabaya style, and the reason a Malang person will tell you their noodles are better than yours.
Black beef soup, colored and soured by kluwek — a fermented nut that looks alarming and tastes like the inside of an earth oven. Served with bean sprouts, salted egg and a lump of rice.
Tempeh and chicken simmered in coconut milk, eaten with rice cake. It is breakfast food: the stalls open at five and are gone by nine.
Malang apples are small, green and sharp. They become cider, crisps, vinegar, jam and a brown fizzy drink sold at every bus terminal on the way out of the city.